2x electrolytics are visible from the rear, the new caps would look so wrong so I decided to stuff the old casings. This probably isn't original but it was fun and is near invisible. The next service man will need to keep an eye out for the sneaky lead as a hint to its repair.
Unfurl the cardboard at the least visible end and slide out the can.
Cut through the can with a hacksaw, dremel & hollow out, wash out, dry, drill...
Getting the new capacitor in is fiddly. The casing is -ve so put the +ve in first which will sit optimally. The second lead never threads fully through, not at least with the small hole I drilled. You may end up with a little scrunched-up excess lead in the can. If the scrunched-up lead is the -ve and it touches the casing it won't matter.
Re-packing post-soldering...
The underside, this is the end that I unpacked/packed from as it's not visible when installed (it's down in the chassis mounting ring):
Top (visible) end. Poor cosmetic state specimen but it looks more appropriate than exposing the new [internal] component:
Kind regards... Clark.
Fri Sep 10 21:13:02 NZST 2010
I'm looking for the schematic to this radio. If you can help me could you email me on clark@kiwi.gen.nz.
Otherwise, enjoy the view! :)
Many thanks... Clark
Sat Aug 21 15:23:20 NZST 2010
Wire wound resistor. Expected low ohms but is open (1M+)
Trivia: I only just learnt to read this weird resistor value notation. Glad the colours are the same. :)
Were the cap's were made here?:
The layout chart shows all the valves
Dusty / dirty
Rear view. Ignore the white power cable with yellow cable ties. :)
Stamped: "5842" Is this the model number?
Nice reading. Repeats the "5842" as well as No."SIX" is written
Speaker
(Play) Underside in 3D. You don't need any glasses.
Works for me, can you see it? It's a bit exaggerated depth-wise.
To view, I'm about 45cm (18") from the screen and sort of go cross-eyed.
I let the metallic blue cap center'ish overlap, takes a bit of work...
