Electrolytic re-stuffing

Hi all. I'm working on my old valve/tube radio (see way below).

2x electrolytics are visible from the rear, the new caps would look so wrong so I decided to stuff the old casings. This probably isn't original but it was fun and is near invisible. The next service man will need to keep an eye out for the sneaky lead as a hint to its repair.

Unfurl the cardboard at the least visible end and slide out the can.
Cut through the can with a hacksaw, dremel & hollow out, wash out, dry, drill...
Getting the new capacitor in is fiddly. The casing is -ve so put the +ve in first which will sit optimally. The second lead never threads fully through, not at least with the small hole I drilled. You may end up with a little scrunched-up excess lead in the can. If the scrunched-up lead is the -ve and it touches the casing it won't matter.

Re-packing post-soldering...

The underside, this is the end that I unpacked/packed from as it's not visible when installed (it's down in the chassis mounting ring):

Top (visible) end. Poor cosmetic state specimen but it looks more appropriate than exposing the new [internal] component:

Kind regards... Clark.

Fri Sep 10 21:13:02 NZST 2010

Hi there.

I'm looking for the schematic to this radio. If you can help me could you email me on clark@kiwi.gen.nz.

Otherwise, enjoy the view! :)

Many thanks... Clark

Sat Aug 21 15:23:20 NZST 2010

Cabinet. 934mm high, 610mm wide, 302mm deep

Wire wound resistor. Expected low ohms but is open (1M+)
Trivia: I only just learnt to read this weird resistor value notation. Glad the colours are the same. :)

Were the cap's were made here?:

The layout chart shows all the valves

Dusty / dirty

Rear view. Ignore the white power cable with yellow cable ties. :)

Stamped: "5842" Is this the model number?

Nice reading. Repeats the "5842" as well as No."SIX" is written


(Play) Underside in 3D. You don't need any glasses.
Works for me, can you see it? It's a bit exaggerated depth-wise.
To view, I'm about 45cm (18") from the screen and sort of go cross-eyed.
I let the metallic blue cap center'ish overlap, takes a bit of work...